For some years now, Caleb Foster and Nina Buty have been quietly crafting delicious, powerful and personable wines at their Walla Walla boutique. This supple, lush Merlot profits from the 10% Cab Franc added to the blend, which gives it a tannic spine laced with roasted espresso. Big, thick and mouthcoating, yet it retains its focus and length. ——P.G.(11/15/2004)—— 90