Lodians always tell you that their city isn’t as hot as you think it is, but it really is. This hothouse wine has very forward, fruity-sweet flavors of cassis and chocolate milk, but it’s like drinking Coke without the carbonated water. In other words, syrupy. Deliciously sweet, but rather cloying, and not really a table wine. Try it as a dessert wine, or pour it over vanilla ice cream.——S.H.(12/15/2003)—— 84