The 2002 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine Clos du Moulin offers boisterous aromas reminiscent of stones, blackberries, and spices. A classy, seamless, medium to full-bodied wine, it has superb depth of fruit and a silky texture. Espresso bean-laced black cherries can be discerned in its complex, edge-free, and exceptionally long character. Projected maturity: now-2009. Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; and Winesellers, Ltd., Skokie, IL; tel. (847) 679-0121