The biggest production, 7,900 cases, is for the 2004 Pinot Noir Russian River. A cherry cough syrup character along with notions of toasty oak and beet root/root beer are followed by a lush, heady mid-palate and finish. It is best drunk over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (800) 314-1762; Fax (707) 571-1448

The best, most complex of La Crema’s three appellation series Pinot Noirs shows true Russian River character. It’s medium- to full-bodied, with oak-tinged cherry compote, root beer and cocoa flavors. Tannic weight could help it improve for a couple of years. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 88