A best-of-barrels selection from the winery’s various vineyards, this is a lush, intricate Chardonnay made in the modern style. It’s fantastically rich in pineapple tart flavors, with the sweet, smoky crust, and more acidic citrus notes of Meyer lemons and limes. Oak aging and lees add fortunate layers of buttered toast and cream. Very intricate, with Chablisian dryness and minerality. Now–2014.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 95