Renowned French consultant Michel Rolland and his wife, Dany, make this bruiser in northern Argentina, and it’s unique to say the least. It sizzles at 16% alcohol, with subdued ink and smoke aromas, fiery flavors of blackberry, licorice and pepper, and firm, probing tannins. Call it a wine warrior’s wine, a collector’s special; and try to cellar it for several years before drinking.——M.S.(12/1/2003)—— 93