Weingut Pfeffingen Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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The pithy, smoky, citric Pfeffingen 2009 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Riesling Spatlese trocken – like its Kabinett counterpart – is a wine I certainly wouldn’t want to see with one gram less residual sugar. Its 13.5% alcohol serves for body and glycerin but generates no heat, while suggestions of ripe musk melon lend a much-needed sense of juiciness. Peach kernel, almond, pumpkin, and pumpkin seed inform an impressively persistent, penetrating and piquant finish. I would plan on serving this Eymael Riesling – for me, his most successful of the 2009 vintage – over the next 4-6 years. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463