A rather intriguing wine, as I know of no other like it in the southern Rhone, is the 2003 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Sablet Tenebi, a 100% Counoise from a vineyard planted in 1954. The wine exhibits distinctive earthy notes intermixed with incense, saddle leather, and some wild Indian spices. Deep ruby, medium-bodied, and quite distinctive, but somewhat controversial, as it lives on the wild side. But for the adventurous, it’s worth trying. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.
This well-run estate of Jean-Marc and Sophie Autran has turned out very strong wines in 2003 that are just now in the market. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800
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