The 2003 Branco is 55% Gouveio, fermented in tank, the rest Rabigato, fermented in French oak. Originally released in 2005, it is a library wine, noted here for historical reasons, as an insight into ageworthiness. I've had more than a few doubts as to how many Douro whites would age, and more than a few disappointments. This has some pros and cons, depending on how you like them, but it grew on me steadily. It does require some palate adjustment. The rather modest oak treatment has stood it in good stead - there is none of that sour vanilla nuance that some dying whites get when heavily oaked and the fruit then cracks up. To my mind, that often makes them pretty much undrinkable. Instead, this has nice persistence and body still, some notes of oxidation, but a pleasing, earthy complexity, fine acidity and a lingering finish. At this point in its life - clearly showing lots of mature and tertiary notes - it won't have the freshness that many want, particularly in a white, but its earthy, slightly mushroom-y notes of maturity will be pleasing and interesting to many others. It should hang on awhile longer, but I wouldn't hold it too long. Drink now.
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