The dark plum-colored 1997 Merlot Oakville, from a parcel of vines close to Dalla Valle, Screaming Eagle, and the new Rudd Cellars, is a jammy offering with gobs of ostentatiously rich black cherry fruit intermixed with smoke and spicy oak. It hits the palate with generous amounts of glycerin, and thick, juicy fruit. This succulently-textured wine is a thrill to drink. It should provide Merlot lovers with plenty of excitement. Moreover, it should continue to drink well for a decade.Readers are well-advised to get on Behrens and Hitchcock's mailing list as a large percentage of their small production is sold via this route. Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206