Domaine Bott-Geyl Riesling Mandelberg, Alsace Grand Cru, France

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The 1993 Riesling Mandelberg reveals more opulence than the 1993 Riesling Grafenreben, as well as an underlying sense of elegance and a strong mineral character, with less of the honeyed fruit character found in the Grafenreben. It is a more focused, richer, medium-bodied, dry Riesling. Now that the young Jean-Christophe Bott-Geyl has begun to take more risks in producing his wines (harvesting later, bottling with minimal clarification), the quality of the wines of Domaine Bott-Geyl, situated in the Alsatian village of Beblenheim, has soared. This is an impressive group of dry Alsatian white wines. A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers. For availability information, Vezan's fax in Paris is 33.1.42.55.42.93.