The 2003 Syrah The Hustler is a full-bore, pedal to the metal wine with a splendid perfume of pain grille, pencil lead, blueberry, blackberry, and licorice. It is the most structured of the Syrahs – 8-10 years of cellaring would be beneficial, although the wine is already layered and rich. With ideal storage it should continue to provide pleasure through 2035. K Vintners is where the larger-than-life Charles Smith presides. He is an innovator, marketing genius, outspoken, you name it – but above all the man is a brilliant winemaker who knows where all the great fruit is hidden. In a region where blending is the rule of thumb, he is the ultimate terroirist. Each wine reflects the vineyard from which it was produced but there is also a house style which lets you know immediately who made the wine. While it’s way too soon to put K Vintners on the same level as a Domaine Leroy or Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, the experience you get tasting in the cellar is much the same as in those legendary wineries, brilliantly made wines reflecting the terroir but also a winemaking signature that makes it totally clear which winery made the wine. www.kvintners.com