The 2006 Supremus offers up red berries, copious French oak, cola and sweet spices. I suppose there is such a thing as too much of a good thing. The regular Monte Antico is a reliably delicious, budget-priced wine, but here the search for a more important, concentrated red has resulted in an overoaked, artificial tasting wine. With time in the glass some of the excess oakiness recedes, but only a touch. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a cheerful and well-priced blend of Sangiovese (85%), Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with good density and concentration backed by aromas of spice, blackberry and wet earth. The wine (packaged in a screw cap bottle which is rare to see on red wines from Italy) is fresh and clean and imparts fresh berry flavors. ——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 87