Anderson Valley’s premier producer turns to inland for fifty year old vines and the heat to ripen them. They got plenty ripe this vintage, with deep, impressive berry and fruit flavors and accents like chocolate and rum. It’s a little soft, but okay. Sixteen percent alcohol is heady, but the wine handles it well, and has been fermented to full dryness. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 89
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