The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva opens with dark fruit, earthiness and licorice, all of which come together in a fairly brooding yet generous style. The Riserva is all about fruit, and I wouldn’t tempt fate by keeping this too long in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Importer: V.E.D.I. Vintners Estates Direct Importing, Yorkville, CA; tel. (707) 894-1811