From relatively young vines, the Prieur 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes offers a site-typical combination of adamantly chalky, stoniness; bright citricity; and a flatteringly polished mouth-feel. Voluminous and palpably extract-rich, this handles its 60% new wood and 14.5% alcohol with aplomb, clinging with just a faint hint of heat. This wine with its uncanny balance between the sensually lavish and austerely mineral sides of Puligny should be worth cellaring for 4-6 years, longer if its alcohol remains well-buffered. The 2005 is equally raw in intensity, but – surprisingly – shows its wood and similarly high alcohol a bit more. Harvest began here September 20, and oenologist Nadine Gublin (who recently added wine making direction at Brocard in Chablis to her duties) insisted their Chardonnay was not really ripe before them – even though its evolution was rapid – and that very little triage was necessary. Malo-lactic transformation was exceedingly protracted, and some wines were not finished even in November, 2007, when I last tasted them. The entire collection was rather obviously marked by their (40-100%) new wood; less so by its routinely over-14% alcohol. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.