There’s a minerality to this Chard that makes it bracing, although it also shows the opulence of Fogarty’s other ’04s. A tang of gunmetal undergirds the tropical fruit and vanilla custard flavors that are wrapped into a creamy texture. Almost begs for shrimp, lobster, crab, the more richly prepared, the better.——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 92