The Domane Wachau 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten - harvested November 4 - conveys the impression of munching on bunches of flowers and herbs, and sucking on citrus zest. It is in equally remarkable parts perfumed and pungent, yet elegant and juicy, only subtly bitter, and exhibits the interplay of stony, saline mineral notes with flowers, fruits, and herbs that typifies this great site. This palate-staining Achleiten delivers the genuine goods for a fair price, and should keep well for at least 6-8 years. Roman Horvath and Heinz Frischengruber are on a roll now, so one wants to root for their retaining the marvelous value that has distinguished Freie Weingartner wines in their best periods, because top-flight Wachau wines at prices like theirs are scarcely available anywhere else. Yields on Gruner Veltliner in 2007 were a bit high for optimal, Frischengruber opines, but then, the yields in Riesling obviously came at the expense of botrytis. And it goes without saying that selectivity is a challenge in coop situations, even though one which the team here has previously proven themselves capable of meeting. Nearly 40% of production was picked as Steinfeder, a quality grade all but missing last year, and whose volume in this vintage permitted enhanced attention to the fruit that remained for Federspiel and Smaragd. All of the wines reviewed below are bottled under the -Domane Wachau- label.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700.

The tough rocks of the Achleiten vineyard come through in this intense wine. It has grapefruit, citrus and vivid acidity, while the Gruner’s pepper character just shows through as a touch on the tongue. Fine wine, very structured.——R.V.(10/1/2008)—— 92