The Kuhling-Gillot 2009 Nierstein Riesling trocken presents a smoky aromatic cast along with bittersweet toasted nut and citrus oils that follow on a richly-textured, full palate to which ashen and peaty notes add a somewhat austere finishing complexity. This admirably-concentrated and seamless if somewhat severe expression of Riesling on Nierstein’s steep slopes of classic Permian sandstone ought to perform well for at least 3-4 years, and perhaps might in the process come to display a bit more winsome and welcoming visage. Like her husband Oliver Spanier (of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier), Carolin Gillot – for more about whose estate see in particular my reports in issues 185 and 187 – seems disinclined to tolerates residual sugar in her wines. Whether or not it is for that reason that they elected not to bottle the 28 gram residual sugar successor to the superb Kuhling-Gillot 2008 Gewurztraminer feinherb, I do wish I’d had chance to satisfy my curiosity by sampling that wine from cask. (I missed out also on sampling this year’s Kuhling-Gillot Pinot Gris from bottle.)Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

This is a peachy, plump Riesling that’s mouthfilling yet not overly soft. The fruity flavors of peach and melon carry a touch of citrus and mineral on the finish. For drinking now and over the next several years.——J.C.(12/1/2011)—— 90