Perrone’s 2007 Moscato d’Asti Clarte is made in a style that will challenge readers’ assumptions about what great Moscato can and should be all about. This is an intensely mineral-driven wine that emphasizes notes of smoke, earthiness and ash over a more typical floral expression of fruit. At various times this stunning wine is reminiscent of a great Greco di Tufo, at other times the pure minerality and focus recall Chablis and Sancerre. It’s hard to imagine that Moscato can be a muscular wine, but it can. This is a Moscato I would choose to serve with cheese rather than the more conventional pairing with dessert. It is a monumental, extreme version of Moscato that must be tasted to be believed. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009.
Along with Paolo Saracco, proprietor Stefano Perrone makes the reference-point Moscatos from Asti. As if that weren’t enough, Perrone also bottles one the finest modern-styled Barberas from Asti, the Barbera Mongovone. Count me among those who is thrilled Perrone gave up a career in motorcycle racing to focus on making wine.
Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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