Serious in size, power and oak, but it doesn’t take long to determine that Rodero’s ’04 reserva is a more complete and pleasing wine. That said, this Ribera with 15% Cabernet and 10% Merlot is still a success; it is mostly coffee and chocolate on the nose, and then saturated berry, savory flavors and lemony oak on the palate. Big and bawdy red wine; needs another few years to settle.——M.S.(12/15/2009)—— 90