The 2004 Walter Clore Private Reserve Red Blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Merlot. It was aged in new French oak for 24 months. The aromatics deliver smoke, toast, spice box, cassis, and black currants. On the palate the wine is smooth textured and powerful. It has outstanding depth and concentration, enough structure to evolve for 4-5 years, and a long, pure finish. Drink it from 2012 to 2025.Columbia Crest, owned by Ste-Michelle Wine Estates, has long been known for the quality of its value priced wines.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

This is roughly 50-50 Cabernet and Merlot. The challenge for the Clore designate is to establish a specific personality apart from the winery’s many other superpremium red blends. This seems like a rather ordinary wine. It’s sound and good, but does not rise to a higher level.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 86