The vineyard is in southern Napa, a relatively cool region. The wine is very dark, with a purple color, and it stains the glass. It smells tight, earthy and young now, offering up just a tease of cassis. But it erupts on the palate with an explosion of berries, spices and fine tannins. Extraordinarily rich now, but will unquestionably develop. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 94