This is the palest and lightest of Calera’s ‘02 Pinots, but paradoxically it’s enormously concentrated in flavor and possible the most ageworthy. It explodes with cherry cola, cherry pie filling, raspberry, blueberry, cocoa-dusted latte and cinnamon-nutmeg spice. But it has the depth and balance for the long haul. Best now through 2012. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 93