Another 14% alcohol, unusually high-acid exemplar of its cepage, the Mann 2008 Pinot Gris Furstentum nonetheless harbors enough residual sugar (25 grams) to come off as just subtly sweet. Ripe peach, lemon zest, musky peony, and smoked pork products in the nose reemerge on an almost sizzlingly bright yet full, faintly oily, and palpably dense palate. Ginger, cinnamon, lemon zest, and chalk supply a sense of invigorating impingement by way of a strikingly persistent finish. I miss quite the juicy exuberance of the corresponding Rosenberg, but on any given day – or any given year from among the next 15 – this might prove the more expressive of the two. Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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