The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum comes across as a bit restrained next to the 2008, which is not a bad thing at all. It possesses stunning depth and volume in a dramatic style that stands far apart from the super-ripe 2008. Mint, freshly cut flowers, spices and licorice are some of the notes that add complexity to the fruit. The resonant, creamy finish leaves a lasting impression. The 2009 includes a new source of fruit, Shartsis, a vineyard near Dana Estates’s home vineyard in Rutherford that comprises 55% of the blend. J. Davies (28%) and Pedregal (17%) account for the remaining 45%. The 2009 Annum is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Petit Verdot. It is a great, great wine from David Ramey. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels.Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com

Deep ruby in color, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum, a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Petit Verdot, opens with dark raisin and prune notions plus graphite, cedar shavings, wet bark, chocolate box and turned earth, revealing cassis, black cherries, charcuterie, clove and licorice with time. Medium-bodied and silky, at this moment it's striking a wonderful balance of fruit and tertiary character, with a firm frame of grainy tannins and good acidity, finishing with spicy nuances. So good! Drinking stunningly now, this will continue to hold. 350 cases were made.