One of the strengths of 1995 is Tokay-Pinot Gris. Certainly Bott-Geyl's 1995 Tokay-Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz appears to be an amazing effort. I noted that in two separate tastings I wrote "explosive" in my notes. The wine exhibits a light to medium straw color, as well as a buttery popcorn, honeyed grapefruit, waxy nose that soars from the glass. Unctuous, thick, and rich, but not weighty, this full-bodied, powerful wine changes rapidly in the glass, offering numerous aromatic nuances. It is a rich, large-scaled Tokay-Pinot Gris that has managed to retain its elegance. Drink it over the next 7-10 years.Bott-Geyl has become one of Alsace's most fashionable young wine producers. Three consistent characteristics of these wines are 1) purity and concentration, 2) multi-layered textures - the result of extended lees contact for 10-12 months, and 3) faithful interpretation of each varietal's characteristics. The wines reviewed in this segment performed exceptionally well, and, for their quality, are reasonably-priced. Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949.
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