Weingut Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Qba Trocken, Rheingau, Germany

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The 2006 Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling trocken is pithier and yet more piquant than its Holle Kabinett counterpart, and also both fuller and more austerely stony in finish. There is certainly admirable concentration, and Kunstler was at pains to point out that this wine was slow in coming out of its post-fermentative and then post-bottling shells. Accordingly, I would plan to revisit it in 2009 and expect at least several years of worthwhile drinking. One can’t say that Gunther Kunstler has enjoyed the best of luck in recent years. This year’s move into a spacious and superior cellar coincided with the earliest and most precipitant ripening of Riesling grapes in modern history, and accomplishing the harvest and move both in timely fashion was an enormous challenge. But the bottled results show that the challenge was well met. The green harvest was as intensive and expensive as many a genuine harvest of the past, Kunstler relates, and even after rigorous triage, musts were charcoal-filtered (as has been the case in other rained-on vintages).Imported: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463