The 2000 Blanc De Blancs (Yarden) sparkling wine is 100% Chardonnay from the cool climate Golan Heights area. It is very good, presenting itself as a serious sparkler, focused and persistent. It gives the impression of power, but remains quite elegant. Yeasty and toasty, it is very dry, with a mouthwateringly crisp finish that has a certain austerity to it as well as some grip. It lingers quite respectably. It was kept four years before release on tirage yeast. The interesting start that makes it seem like a dead ringer for a Brut Champagne is not entirely rewarded, though. As impressive as it seemed initially, it faded and flattened fast, leaving a rather austere wine with a lot of acid and not much fruit. Drink now-2009. Golan Heights is on most short lists for the title “Best Winery in Israel.” It is one of Israel’s larger wineries, with about 20% of the local market share. Some of its vineyards were first planted in 1976, and its 1983 founding was a landmark and turning point in Israel’s development into a country that produces wines that can compete in the world marketplace. It is not one of the trendy boutiques, obviously, but the quality level is very high, and few have as much prestige. Golan Heights is perhaps best known for its flagship subsidiary “Yarden” with the familiar ancient oil lamp design on the label. (Yarden is Hebrew for Jordan, as in the Jordan River.) The upper level wines can be pricey for what they are. These wines are Kosher.Importer: Yarden, Inc., New York, N.Y.; tel. (212) 997-9463
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