The 2006 Rosso Piceno Superiore Il Brecciarolo offers up black cherries, leather, smoke and cured meats in an extroverted style of Rosso Piceno. This is an especially dark, brooding wine from the Marche. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Brecciarolo delivers a clean nose of blackberry and Indian spice backed by dense extraction and sweet cherry flavors. It is smooth, sweet and rich in the mouth but also one-dimensional when you get down to the nuts and bolts.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 87