Juicy fruit shines in this winning Pinot, and why not? It’s from one of the Russian River Valley’s most respected growers. Smoke swirls around cherry and blackberry flavors in a lovely pas-de-deux, enveloping yet never obscuring the fruit. The delicious chalky, smoked meat and licorice finish is long. Drink now–2007. Editors’ Choice.——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 90