Weingut Heidi Schrock Blaufrankisch Kulm, Neusiedlersee-Hugelland, Austria

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Schrock’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Kulm is from 53 year old vines planted by her grandfather, and matured in fuder and older barriques. Salted mulberries and black cherries accented by toasted hickory nuts and wood smoke inform a dense, firm, palate with attractive brightness of fresh fruit and tart fruit skin. A slightly tart, saline, bitter-sweet finish evinces a faint roughness of tannin. This wine is only now coming on the market, and Schrock opines that it needs time to reveal its full personality. It should surely keep well for at least 5-6 years. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300