The first word in my tasting notes for the 2005 Syrah is “wow!”. Dense ruby/purple-colored with a beautiful smoky, cassis, camphor, and graphite-scented bouquet, this seamlessly constructed, full-bodied offering displays beautifully integrated acidity, tannin, wood, and alcohol. It comes across as a Central Coast version of a top-notch French Hermitage. These two beauties are well-worth a search of the marketplace.What a debut from well-known Santa Maria personalities James Ontiveros and Paul Wilkins. They have hit pay dirt with their inaugural offerings.Tel. (805) 688-9090; Fax (805) 688-9001

A little on the soft side, and with some heat from high alcohol. But the ripe, firm tannins and complex flavors are big pluses. Blackberries, dark chocolate, black pepper, tobacco and cedar flood the mouth, leading to a long, spicy finish. Should develop through 2011 or so.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 89