Licorice and horehound are strikingly prominent on the nose and palate of Dirler-Cade's 2007 Gewurztraminer Spiegel, along with rose petal perfume and celery root. The bittersweet alternation of flavors and the low-toned character of this voluminous bottling no doubt owe much to its 14.5% alcohol, although its long, polished finish evinces no heat. The overall impression is sweet, but to have dropped lower than the 35 grams of residual sugar present here would have meant playing with fire, and these days, every ripe vintage in Alsace (and which vintage hasn't been ripe?) is replete with example of those who succeed at 15+% and those who (or at least, whose customers palate-s) get burned. This may well become more interesting with time, and I imagine it could keep well for a decade or more. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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