The Gilberts’ 2009 Left Bank – a blend of the five best known Bordelais varieties, around half Cabernet Sauvignon – is thankfully a lot more elegant (as well as less expensive) than its leaden bottle might lead you to anticipate. This generously juicy blend features classic scents and flavors of cedar, tobacco, and cassis, both its tart berry skin and moderately resinous and caramelized notes from barrel managing to remain well-integrated. It ought to hold up well for at least several years, though I don’t anticipate enormous gain.
The Gilbert family – residents in Yakima for eleven decades and whose various members have in recent years planted several geographically disparate vineyards – delivered two highly promising wines for my inspection, though I was less impressed with a rather volatile Rhone blend and a sweetly fruited but, in its finish slightly drying, Syrah.
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