The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva bursts onto the palate with an array of ripe dark fruit, smoke, tobacco, incense and French oak. Notes of earthiness and tar run through the wine, adding a sense of darkness. The finish is long, rich and textured. With a little more finesse in the bouquet, this might very well merit a higher score. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: Wine Appellations Ltd., Mill Valley, CA; tel. (415) 381-5782

Loacker/Corte Pavone is on a roll of late and is making some of the finest Brunello you will find. Organic farming practices have helped shape a truly tremendous wine with deep concentration and amazing intensity. The wine is rich and velvety and bursting with bright fruit nuances. Drink after 2015.——M.L.(8/1/2010)—— 95