The Lecheneaut 2006 Morey-St.-Denis Clos Des Ormes received two-thirds new barrels, but thanks to its enhanced level of concentration vis-a-vis its village-level counterparts at this address, there is no detached or in any way awkward manifestation of this. Rather, the wood has probably played a positive role in sweetening the sense of fresh red cherry fruit, to which pungent herbal and peppery notes add counterpoint. There is a fine and uninterrupted flow of juicy fruit in the finish here, and the palate is firmly but finely tannic. This should be worth following for at least half a dozen years, and might well gain in complexity. Vincent and Philippe Lecheneaut report having ended up with higher potential alcohol in their 2006 fruit than in 2005 – though not, they hasten to add, equally ripe flavors – and having accordingly performed scarcely any chaptalization, so that only a few of the wines finished at over 13%. The regimen of new wood was essentially unchanged from 2005, which I think worked to the disadvantage of a number of these 2006s, wines that – while very well made, and in some instances distinguished – suffer considerably by comparison with their immediate predecessors.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083