Georges Duboeuf Domaine de la Chaponne, Morgon, France

杜寶夫酒莊查封尼園紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3456

From the high western edge of its appellation, just outside the old village of Morgon, the 2009 Morgon Domaine de la Chaponne (tasted from tank) mingles fresh black fruits; kirsch; toasted, salted nuts; high-toned herbal essences; and a haunting hint of rowan in an effusive aromatic display, backed by a mouth-filling and delightfully buoyant palate impression. Here is a 2009 that belies whatever alcohol it may have (and I didn’t check in this instance). Cherry pit, salt, and chewy berry skin combine to help render the finish lip-smacking. I would not be surprised if this terrific value held up well for 3-4 years, though I cannot speak from direct experience with older examples. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463