The 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley is 100% varietal, aged for 15 months in 41% new barrels. Opaque purple, the nose exhibits blue fruits, scorched earth, black pepper, and violets. Ripe and rich, the wine conceals enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years. Drink it from 2010 to 2018.Bergevin Lane, owned and operated by Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane, has another top-notch set of new releases.Tel. (509) 526-4300; www.bergevinlane.com

Bergevin Lane’s wines show a rich mix of herbal and earth flavors, with ripe but not overly sweet fruit. This 100% varietal Syrah is herbaceous and aromatic, with rich scents that mix the purple fruits with intimations of herb, chocolate and cracker. It’s elegant and tight, and should be decanted for several hours. Once it breathes open, it’s perfectly balanced and drinkable right now.——P.G.(3/1/2009)—— 90