The floral-scented, fat 1999 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone white is one-dimensional, but concentrated. When I asked Francoise Reynaud what she likes to eat with this wine, she said "I prefer it as an aperitif." Maybe that's its true calling in life.Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400