Irresistible is the word that comes to mind to describe this Pinot, which is available only in magnums. The vintage was California’s finest ever, and the wine shows spectacularly ripe red currant, cherry, tangerine zest, licorice and beef jerky flavors, with just the right touch of smoky oak. Yet the structural balance of acidity and fine tannins gives it the perfect architecture. Best now in its flashy youth and for the next 4 or 5 years.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 96