Consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini oversees winemaking at Brancaia, which owns vineyards in the Chianti Classico and Morellino di Scansano zones. Brancaia’s newest wine is Ilatraia, a blend of 60% Cabernet 30% Sangiovese and 10% Petit Verdot made from the estate’s Maremma property. The 2004 shows a very pretty Maremma warmth in its expression of sweet dark fruit, herb, tobacco and earthiness, with good length and excellent overall balance. It spent 18 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. Importer: William Grant and Sons, USA, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 246-1760