It’s clear that winemaker Forrest Tancer is aiming at a California-class Cabernet blend, a complex wine, lush in fruit and herbs, softly tannic and framed in the finest oak. He largely succeeds with this bottling, made only in the best vintages. It lacks the structure of Napa Cabernet, which is unavoidable given its terroir. But it defines Alexander Valley. ——S.H.(7/1/2002)—— 92