The 2010 Chardonnay Ma Princesse wraps around the palate with deep layers of fruit. The richness of the small berries and old Wente clones comes through as the fruit caresses the palate from start to finish. Sweet floral notes add lift and brightness on the close. This vivid, multi-dimensional Chardonnay should drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup.Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com

The 2010 Chardonnay Ma Princesse, from a site in the Russian River, opens up beautifully in the glass. Honey, butterscotch, tropical fruit and sweet spices all blossom as the 2010 shows off its full-bodied personality. This old Wente selection yields very small berries packed with flavor. That intensity is quite evident throughout. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Luc Morlet must surely have one of the broadest portfolios in California between the wines he makes under his own labels and for his consulting clients. There are a lot of beautiful wines in this range, although I have to admit, I tend to prefer the wines Morlet makes in Napa Valley over those from Sonoma. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over the 2010s, as I find the more recent vintage a touch more refined. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the 2011 Pinots, but found them in an awkward, raw state that is not unusual for young wines from this cold and very late harvest. Tel. (707) 967-8690