The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Stone Tree Vineyard has no such issues. The fruit from this excellent terroir was aged in 100% new French and American oak for 18 months. Aromas of sandalwood, Asian spices, lavender, cassis, and black cherry are followed by a medium-bodied wine that admirably combines elegance and power. Full-flavored on the palate with excellent volume and balance, this lengthy effort will evolve for 2-3 years and drink well through 2022. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

This wine surprises by being so very pretty—unexpected from such a hot site. Lovely scents of raspberry, strawberry, mint and spice lift the nose; the palate is medium-bodied, nicely tart, perfectly balanced and long. The mix of sweet and tart red fruits lasts deliciously, with the spice adding grace notes. Though blended and aged in 100% new French oak barrels, the oak is muted, and the fruit shines through. ——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 91