The 2007 Chardonnay Point Rouge (280 cases) has moved out of the restrained state it was in a year ago, and now exhibits splendidly intense, nearly over-the-top levels of honeyed tropical fruits, hazelnut, almond paste, quince, and peach liqueur. Full-bodied, thick, and rich yet braced by considerable acidity, this is a remarkable tour de force in Chardonnay that should age for a decade or more.
Brothers Nicolas and Luc Morlet (the former the winemaker and the latter a consultant) told me that 2008 was one of the smallest crops they have encountered, largely because of the late spring frosts, and windy conditions during flowering. Yields were low, but the quality was among the highest they have ever seen for Chardonnay, with a level of concentration reminiscent of the 2002s. As I indicated in issue #180, Peter Michael’s 2007 Chardonnays are spectacular. Production is about 30% higher per cuvee than in 2008, and these are exquisite efforts with lots of uplift, minerality, zesty aromatics, and refreshing acids. This year I should have a chance to taste the estate plantings from the huge investments Sir Peter Michael has made in Pinot Noir vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. In the meantime, here are some interesting efforts from sites where they contract for fruit.
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