I have always felt that top vintages of Marcassin Pinot Noir have a resemblance to a Ponsot Clos de la Roche from a great vintage. While some may say that-s impossible, I have bought and drunk enough of Ponsot-s Clos de la Roche and Marcassin-s Pinot Noir to have confidence in making that observation. Moreover, the rumor from numerous top Pinot producers about the origin of the Dijon clones being Ponsot old vine material adds to my convictions. The 2002 Marcassin Estate Pinot Noir exhibits a dense plum/purple color to the rim in addition to a compelling bouquet of raspberry jam, black cherries, Asian spice and the tell-tale forest floor note which is clearly a characteristic of the Burgundian clones used at Marcassin. Full-bodied, opulent, multilayered and built like a skyscraper with a silky texture, this profound effort is one of the greatest Pinot Noirs ever made in the New World. It should continue to drink well for another 10-15 years, but there is no need to defer your gratification.

The profound 2002 Pinot Noir Marcassin Estate always reminds me of a top-notch Clos de la Roche from a domaine such as Ponsot. Notes of fresh mushrooms, forest floor, plums, black cherries, raspberries, and hints of white chocolate and smoke jump form the glass of this full-bodied wine. Its extraordinary nuances, amazingly complex, rich, broad palate, and spectacular finish suggest it should drink well for well over a decade. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633