Moving to the 2012s, and the only Southern Rhone tasted (I reviewed the majority of this estate’s Southern Rhones in Issue 209), the 2012 Cotes du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu (80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre aged in larger oak casks) offers beautiful black cherry, currant, licorice and roasted garrigue-like nuances as well as medium to full-bodied richness and texture on the palate. Nicely balanced, with loads of Southern Rhone flair and character, it should drink nicely for 7-8 years.
Since 2006, owner Caroline Frey has been steadily pushing for increased quality at this historic estate. Moving all of the vineyards to sustainable farming (which takes years to see benefits), both the vineyard and cellar staff have been doubled. In addition, a new gravity operated cellar was set up in 2010. All of this shows, and across the board, the wines have impeccably made, clean and pure profiles. Looking at the individual Northern Rh?ne appellations, this estate produces four Hermitage (La Chapelle, La Chapelle Blanc, Le Petite Chapelle and Les Chevalier de Stérimberg), four Crozes Hermitage (Domaine de Thalabert, Domaine Mule Blanche, Domaine de Roure and Domaine de Roure Blanc), one C?te R?tie (Domaine des Pierrelles), one Cornas (Domaine de Saint Pierre), one Saint Joseph (Domaine de la Croix des Vignes) and one Condrieu (Domaine des Grands Amandiers). Looking at 2011, Caroline stated that it was easy to get ripeness, and harvest was early to avoid heat stress on the grapes. Of the three most recent vintages (2011, 2012 and 2013), 2011 had the highest yields, with both 2012 and 2013 seeing a significant drop. I was able to taste a number of these wines twice, once in a larger lineup covering the individual appellations, and again at a tasting at the domaine, with Caroline and oenologist Jacques Desvernois.
Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700
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