Coturri's 1994 Merlot Feingold Vineyards is a rich, medium to full-bodied, surprisingly structured Merlot that will benefit from a few more months of bottle age. There is no evidence of volatile acidity (thankfully). The wine exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, and good black-cherry fruit with an underlying loamy/mineral character. It is spicy and rich, as well as structured, suggesting it will last for 5-7 years.I am a big fan of the best Coturri wines, but I feel obligated to provide the following notice: None of my reviews provoke more controversy than those of Coturri. For every subscriber who writes to thank me for turning them on to these organically made, unfined, unfiltered, unsulphured wines, there are others who have accused me of consuming excessive amounts of illegal substances before tasting Coturri's wines, or, even worse, just incompetence. The debate over Coturri's wines is due to the fact that some Coturri offerings (which I do not recommend) are flawed by excessive amounts of volatile acidity, off aromas, etc. Coturri's adherence to a puristic approach of bottling barrel by barrel, refusing to assemble all of the barrels into a master blend, should be discontinued. This practice, also used by numerous Burgundians, results in notoriously frustrating bottle variation. Nevertheless, the wines reviewed in this issue were super-rich, pure examples of their varietals. They are too interesting and provocative not to recommend. However, readers who prefer wines that fall within strictly defined parameters are forewarned. Those who possess adventurous spirits and are interested in different winemaking styles should try one of Coturri's offerings before investing in a case. These are some of the most intriguing, albeit controversial wines I have ever reviewed. Readers who find these wines to their liking tend to be obsessed by the positive qualitites of the Coturri winemaking philosophy.Tel. (707) 996-6247
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