L’Ecole No. 41 is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent.Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

The aromas are subtle and complex, with nuances of sweet pine and citrus that are usually blown out by warmer sites. About 20% was aged in new oak, but the influence is barely noticeable, as a gentle background, giving light scents of toast and hints of butterscotch. This is the perfect compromise between barrel and tank-style Chardonnay, taking the best of each, as evidenced by the creaminess that underlies the spice and lightly herbal fruit.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 90